the Barcelona edit
Thus my third annual solo trip came to an end and I'm now back in the Big Smoke.
It all began in my first year in London when I found myself with no plans as Lent term came to an end and friends dispersed to go back home. Still taken by the excitement of the possibilities offered by the proximity to mainland Europe, I booked my first solo trip to Prague & Salzburg. This was in 2022. In 2023, the four day bank holiday marked the perfect occasion for my first city break of the year so I hopped on a Eurostar to Paris and by 2024, it was a tradition I couldn’t help but uphold.
a love letter to food and drinks
My time in Barcelona revolved around the simple pleasure of eating delicious Spanish food. I followed local (and algorithmic) recommendations to eat my way around the city. My first meal was at a local gem of a bar, frequented by older people and workers, recommended by a born and bred Barcelonian (the walking tour guide/hostel receptionist). Sat on the sidewalk of Bar Morryssom, I reawakened to the deliciousness of patatas bravas (and the tortilla — Spanish omelette — was also surprisingly good). Activating my deep love for potato (the ultimate carb after bread), I proceeded to have patatas bravas the next three days as well.
This pretty much encapsulated my menu in Spain — patatas bravas and Iberico ham croquettes. No matter the neighbourhood, I found a tapas bar to satisfy my craving (and standard order): Sol Soler on Plaça del Sol in Gràcia, Quillo in El Born and Cala del Vermut by Passeig de Gràcia (a recommendation from the bike tour guide).
As much as I enjoyed the tapas, the star meal was the fish and seafood paella at Los Caracolos. On a small street off Plaça Reial is an intimate looking restaurant (until you walk past the bar and through the restaurant to find the expansive restaurant space). I was aware of this restaurant years prior to visiting Barcelona because of how highly my late grandfather spoke of the food there. So coming to Barcelona, it was a no brainer to book a table there and the food didn’t disappoint. The paella was incredible and such a joy to eat.
While the focus was definitely the food, it wouldn’t be me without the drinks coming into play in some extent. Though in my current challenge to reduce my drinking, I didn’t venture out a lot. I had to go to a wine tasting because it’s a must when in a top wine-producing country like Spain — and I absolutely adore Spanish wine as this tasting reaffirmed. The wine was incredibly smooth and easy to drink. My two favourites were the Cava (airy and fresh) and the Albariño (light and fruity). The best part (yet the saddest part as a Londoner) was how affordable yet high quality wine is in Spain.
Now a detour from deliciousness rooted in simplicity to deliciousness rooted in complexity. I went to Two Schmucks, ranked one of the 50 best bars in the world. The bar leverages food combinations in their cocktails and pushes the limits of creativity to offer something new and interesting. The bar had a nice and comfortable atmosphere; as is indicative by its signature cocktails, it doesn’t take itself to seriously.
a lesson in people (and city) watching
Traveling alone as an eternally curious person enhances my senses as I absorb my surroundings and observe people as they come and go (and overhear their conversations when I can — oops?).
I spent most of my time walking around so it was mostly taking in the city; the contrast between wide roads and narrow streets, the juxtaposition between deeply beautiful, historic buildings and modern, concrete blocks, the distinction between under the radar, casually dressed locals and stylish, fashionably dressed tourists.
The highlight of the city is undeniably the architecture. Gaudí is an artist whose buildings are true art but beyond his work, some of the buildings dotted around the city are eye catching and astonishing as well.
Cycling around the city offers a slightly zoomed out perspective. It was a nice way to skim through the city and spot the distinctions between neighbouring areas which can often go unnoticeable when deep in the streets. It truly emphasised how beautiful the historic area of Barcelona is (in contrast to the more modern neighbourhoods that lack that same depth and soul which is obvious in the historic spaces).
Now, while my time was spent city watching, I had the chance for prime people watching at Los Caracolos. I was sat on a table overseeing a few tables where I was able to compare the interactions of an older American couple who couldn’t agree on what to order or find anything to talk about to a younger French couple who found everything to complain about, of one family who seemed to be enjoying each other’s company by engaging in conversations and games to another family who couldn’t lift their heads from their phone.
On my last day, I went to grab a final coffee and ended up sat on a table with an older lady. She seemed at ease in the shop, a true regular who knew the staff by name and broke into song when interacting with them. She was later joined by a seemingly slightly younger gentleman and I’ve never wished I spoke Spanish more than in that moment. They were engaged in their conversation with excitement and intention. They tried to talk to me but we couldn’t get through the language barrier unfortunately.
an introspection
There is no where to hide on a solo trip. You need to sit with yourself and your spiralling tornado of thoughts. This is the hardest part of traveling alone when you don’t have the interactions with others to be a buffer between you and your anxieties.
I value solo travel as an exercise in freedom and a pressure release. It’s a pause from the hustle and the grind, a chance to prioritise myself and try to disengage from the performance of life.
I’ve yet to master the art of solo travel. Paris was an outlier because how entrenched it is in familial memories and ties. But Barcelona was an incredible elevation from where it all began two years ago. I do think the best solo trip is a matter of balance between length of time, activities, and down time (and social interactions to a certain extent).
I sometimes find it hard to assess how good it was when I can’t benchmark against someone else’s reaction because of the isolation of the experience and the distance I have from my own emotions. I kept dissecting my thoughts and potential feelings to contextualise myself better and form a solid stance, and it was great, full of positives and lacking in negatives. It was a test in letting go and an example of the beauty of things naturally unfolding — the ultimate exercise in giving up control.
I must say, the hesitance mostly came from the weather. I was met with an unexpected change in the weather which meant the evaporation of my vision of me basking in the Spanish sun. It was instead cooler, cloudier and windier than I would have liked which slightly destabilised me. But looking back now from the comfort of my bed, it truly was a rejuvenating, reinvigorating and relaxing time away from the expectations and urgency of London. It offered enough distance (even in just five days) that I feel disoriented to be back and to have to delve back into my regular routine tomorrow.
the itinerary
Wednesday 27 March
Walking Tour in the Modern area
Lunch: Bar Morryssom
Walk to Sants
Joan Miró Park
Montjuic
Thursday 28 March
Gràcia
Casa Vincens
Park Guell
Carrer de Verdi
Placa del Damant
Lunch: Honest Greens
El Born
Barcelonita Beach
Carrer dels Flassadeurs
Wine tasting at Vivinos
Dinner: Sol Soler at Plaça del Sol
Friday 29 March
Bike Tour
Coffee: La Masala
Lunch: Quillo
El Bon
Las Ramblas
Gothic Quarter
Plaça Reial
Dinner: Los Caracolos
Saturday 30 March
Moco Museum
Snack: Demais
Coffee: 356
Santa Caterina Market
Stroll through the Gothic Quarter
La Boqueria Market
Lunch: Cala del Vermut
Stroll around Passeig de Gràcia
Visit of the Bunker — El Carmel
Drink: Two Schmucks
C’est tout.